Much of the Mendocino coast invites
comparison to a Thomas Kinkade painting, but this inn, built in 1877 by
carpenter and mill foreman John Dennen, really is a Kinkade painting ("Home
Is Where the Heart Is II," which now hangs in the parlor). Surrounded by
classic coastal eye candy, Dennen's is one of the region's oldest
Victorians, with individually decorated, supremely comfortable,
cottage-style rooms.
Comfort zone
I can't say definitively that this was the
greatest number ever encountered on one bed, but getting under the covers
required displacing 12 pillows. The time and effort that took is the closest
thing to a complaint inspired by my night in the Creekside room (each room
has its own decor) at the end of the carriage building. The feather bed and
dual-control electric blanket made a snug winter nest after the fire in the
free-standing, wood-burning fireplace died down. The antique furniture was
handsome but low-key, except for the imposing four-poster mahogany bed. The
closet was small, but I found an extra luggage stand in the room.
Bath and beyond
Standing out in the small but adequate
bathroom were a roomy medicine cabinet, an efficient wall heater and thick,
luxuriant towels. One demerit: The molded plastic shower came with one of
those infernal, all-in-one ball-type faucets that regulate water flow and
temperature in a single motion. A facial cleansing towelette and miniature
tube of Tom's of Maine toothpaste were nice touches among the toiletries,
which included inn-branded bath soap, shampoo/conditioner and lotion.
Grounds for approval
Just across Highway 1 from the ocean, the
2-acre property includes the main house, another building incorporating the
original carriage house, a more secluded third building and an ocean-view
cottage at the back. The site invites strolling through orchards, gardens,
cypress and redwood trees, with quail, deer and other wildlife. Buckhorn
Cove's tide pools and beautiful rock formations are within a five-minute
walk.
Geared up
An incomprehensible alarm clock/radio/CD
player on the night stand is the closest to high tech, or any tech, you'll
get here. No television, no telephone -- that's not what this place is
about. It does have free wireless Internet access, and a data port is
available in the parlor. Fax available on request.
In the vicinity
The town of Mendocino, with all its dining
options, is 2 miles to the north. Van Damme State Park surrounds the inn,
and the Anderson Valley wine region is within a half hour's drive.
Good to know
No smoking, no pets. The closest spot to
get cell phone service is in Mendocino -- and, according to the innkeepers,
that's only if you have Cingular. Binoculars, hair dryers and irons are
available upon request. Full concierge services and day-trip planning are
also available.
Highs and lows
The wood-burning stove really did light
with one flick of a match and stayed lit, and the wood supply was just right
to keep the fire going until bedtime, providing ample heat even on a bitter
winter night. On the downside, there was only one cookie on my bed. Yes, I'd
told them I was traveling alone when I booked, but I paid the same price a
couple would, so don't I deserve the full ration of cookies? Such is the
magnitude of my cavils.